how to lighten shell cordovan
The last one that I tried (from Albam) looked similar to the others that I own (Howlin, Harley and AS all in relatively dark colours) but then when I tried it, I could see my shirts stripes. It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. But these creases make cordovan look like its 20 years old, almost from the first wear. When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? Ive purchased half a dozen pairs over the last year. Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. If youre not in the right financial position, your feet can wait. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). I have a bit of a conundrum. If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. Maybe stick to wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet? 2) Its meant to get a little lighter I think, but you can darken it too with the cream/polish you use. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. Understood. Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. I cant recall him imposing any any taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with the EU. Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! As you say, a very subtle charm. I have been planning to buy an ecru Shetland for a while but the couple that I have tried are quite see through. A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. I havent tried it David, no. Two weeks ago I bought the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store. Id find it far too scratchy against the skin with anything less underneath anyway. I dont really ever try to match shoes.and belts it risks looking too affected and matchy. People ALWAYS ask me about them and compliment their appearance. Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. If its any consolation, Americans have a smaller shoe industry and less to choose from generally than we do. Yes, thats one of the better pros. : Everything. Hey Rogey, Would also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes. All of my Aldens are comfortablethe most important thing in any shoeand Alden makes a quality product at a fair price. Brush it briskly before wearing. Is Alden your preferred brand? I dont currently own either but I have held, tried and examined examples from both and, at least from the quality signs that such examination can discover, I have to say that it seemed to me as though Carmina had the upper hand. I think you have one in suede. Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? Cordovans pros are quite well known to most, the shine it has, the long lifespan, the way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), develops a nice patina, etc. Yes, normal cream is fine. Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. Thank you Simon, I would be interested to look into that too. Additional finish definitely matters I suppose. Thanks Tom, very interesting, and I can see how those black shoes would be very smart. Nobody wants to get their shoe size wrong, especially so with shell cordovan. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. While other leathers may over-stretch with time, shell cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit. Do you think there is much difference in the Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black? It gleams like nobodys business in shops selling them, #1. Dont think Im the only good source about cordovan though . My father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst us here in New England. Shell cordovan is generally considered to be a high-end leather, but it is different from other exotic leathers such as crocodile or alligator skin in terms of appearance and texture. I like the style generally (sort of a dressed-up Doc Martin for the urban professional), and I assume you wear them with denim, which is a nice look (although I think the images above are actually from an article you did on similar Kaan shoes, correct?). As it isnt a skin, it doesnt have a top layer, and so can look almost shadowy, with colours floating beneath the surface. Priceless. Where is it from? Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. Theyre really nice. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). I had been trying to buy some Alden Indy boots in cigar shell and for months none appeared on eBay, Grailed or Styleforum. The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. 2. This is all a function of time, temperature, light, and the individual components we imbue into the specific article. Have you seen the hudson loafer? Brushing will always help with calf too see video on that kind of care here, But its much more possible with cordovan. Good to see that you mention Vass. Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? What is the right fit for it? Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. There was nothing wrong with them (although they were a bit stiffer than calf) but, for the price, they were just a bit underwhelming and I occasionally felt the need to tell people they were Cordovan. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? I am considering buying a pair of cordovan loafer, but I am not sure, which to go for. And why specifically deer bone? I was looking at these pair of boots from Alden https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1 to wear with my https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319 and my https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed Jeans. I purchased them at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco during a close-out at a substantial discount about 10 years ago. How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. I put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out. Like suede. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. Thanks for another wonderful article! Thank you. However, theres a few downsides of cordovan that some might not know about, which can be good to be aware of if you are an aspiring cordovan shoe buyer. Given your helpful thoughts; Ill go w/ the Cordovan. But then I am biased as I really like Vass. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. No worries. Normally I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG. To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). Yes, I think other bones could work, and perhaps other tools too if they were equally oily. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. Its personal and cultural, like many of these things, but I associate the bit loafer strongly with cheap Gucci ones in the 80s, and all associated knock-offs. Nick Horween has said that most horse hides he gets are from Canada where horses are eaten, so the skins are by products. https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. Thanks Quention. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. Theyre also a bit smaller in the waist, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2. What would you replace that Saphir recolorant with? Thanks! Both made bespoke for me 21 years ago. Ensure its the correct sizing. What would be your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut? Cordovan is more durable. Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. Sid and I have talked for a while about doing something. If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? Thank you! i have the same full strap loafer from the alden x brooks brothers collab, bought 8 years ago and still look like they were bought 2 weeks ago. CHURCH do a first class resole service. Great read and nice pictures as always. Finally, its worth noting that cordovan differs a lot depending on from who you purchase the shoes, and of course from which tannery the cordovan comes from. Hopefully next time. This is extreme, but show how it can be. You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. How do I repair old, beaten, weathered shell cordovan? My Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green. Curious if youve seen the Bit Ivy loafer in Color 16, a deeper burgundy version of Color 8 on pre-order from Leffot? Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? Is it anything to worry about? Is too little a thing? We adapted the tannage slightly by increasing its fat and oil content to make it more supple. On the contrary, I found Carminas work to be much cleaner in the pairs Ive checked. Did you order a dark No. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. Thanks, nice to know youve found it so helpful. Required fields are marked *. Who should do this instead of me next time? Apologies, yes youre right Visa. I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. Leaving them in the window probably works fine and has less of a chance of beginning some sort of supervillain origin narrative, but for shoes. Simon, Thank you. @Ross Personally I dont like bit loafers though. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. Any particular misgivings about Carmina? Ive got two where the cordovan has a hatch grain to it. Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme Cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly. I think the biggest thing that put me off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting. Posted by LS. https://viberg.com/products/service-boot-cap-toe-horween-dark-cognac-shell-cordovan. Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. I never understood what the bone should do, either. Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ It is all essentially corium. But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) Many shell cordovan consumers love the natural patina that develops from the migration of oils and UV fading that occurs over time. Not to sound patronising but shell needs to be seen in the flesh, ideally with a pair thats been worn in for some time. Cordovan is a thicker and more oiled leather than calf, and as a result ripples more than wrinkles. I prefer them in suede, but then thats probably subjective too. Perhaps a very small amount, but any actual fit issues havent changed. Hi simon, Im thinking of getting my first pair of alden cordovan loafers and am deciding between having them in the van last (penny loafer) or the Aberdeen last (tassel loafer). But yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better. They just so happen to make some stuff for shell cordovan. Thats due to the way shell cordovan is made. My feet get very hot, and Ive noticed a small difference in my boots, but certainly nothing in my loafers. Agree on the color and the versatility in this post. It is the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work. It cost me 20% of my (then) monthly salary. Do Not try to polish shoes while wet. Very nice people though ! Crockett & Jones Harvard loafers: Review, Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage, https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215, https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/, https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america, https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1, https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319, https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed, this article on shoes with brown trousers. Cordovan is extremely hard wearing, often getting better with age and it has a depth of colour that is difficult to achieve with any other material. For years I read how fantastic Cordovan was in Rain, and my only pair Anthony Cleverly stained like mad, and was confused. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. Typically, a pair of shoes requires about one and a half shells. Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . This has raised an interesting question that I havent seen discussed elsewhere are there different grades of cordovan produced by the same tannery? But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. Ashland Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers Shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases. I dont have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green (mentioned above). They do not offer the highest level of finish and that which they do produce is inconsistent. Sure, though to be honest I dont think theres anything to how to wear them. If it were you, what do you think you would have done? Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Was there something specific you were concerned about? The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). Saphir . You might like it as much as some other folks do. Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. which affects the value point. Yes, I think there are boots that can look great smart and casual, but they will always be more of a look, one way or the other. interesting, the colour 8 in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above. For now, Id recommend going for a more comfortable fit with cordovan, if you have the chance. Kind of like the abrasions you can get on suede where you get light streaks in the nap. Crockett & Jones Cordovan Highlights. Hi Simon great post. Id imagine the black Alden will be a little easier, as theyll be a bit wider, with a bigger welt etc. To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). Great article. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff ain't cheap. In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. A decent page on this is here https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/. Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. Isidore Horween made this adjustment after the invention of the disposable razor which decreased the demand for razor strops. Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. Then some others depending on shades. Later, you can then brush them off, followed by a thin layer of protective cream polish, rubbed into the shell, and a thorough brushing. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. Thanks so much and take care! The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. Ah, I see. Certainly, very comfortable and quite capable of surviving a downpour or two, although I still have my old habit of stuffing with newspaper if they are very wet(military habits die hard). And how many of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade. You can see that in these images with my Blackhorse Lane denim. How do they do that? Bravo. Yes youre right, those are the Kaans, I dont have any pictures of the Aldens. Once the tanning process is complete, the hides still require another 4 months of work before they become finished leather. Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. Maybe inside a humidor??? like Weston. Or do you stay away from cordovan? I invested in my first pair of Alden Black Cordovan Tassel Loafer in January 1981 and still wear them today. Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. Love it! Once you had checked off that first box of Goodyear welted shoes, whether it was the Red Wing Iron Ranger or the Alden Indy boot, the next step in the ascension toward shoe collection mastery was a pair of shell cordovan shoes. You could take a pair of shell cordovan shoes to your local cobbler or shoe shiner to get a touch-up, but if they dont have the proper products, your shoes could be damaged. Advice appreciated. Window glass blocks the more energetic UVB radiation, but not UVA. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. Lovely. I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. Unlike natural veg tan cowhide leather, Shell Cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the tanning process. Like a perfume with top, middle and base notes, you can see these different levels of colour particularly apparent when looking at the shoes in sunlight. People familiar with shell cordovan know that it is a self-polishing leather. There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). But they do have particular ties to the US Northeast, just because they became popular there, and were worn more in that community. It depends on the last, the model, and any custom features. worsteds) compared with denim, cord or chinos (where I imagine the more comfortable home for cordovan, but not necessarily black shoes)? The aging process of leather shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes. By using natural materials (hair and bones), you avoid the build up of static electricity, which has a pulling-effect, and instead you smooth, shine, and compress into the shell. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here, In-depth How adhesives affect form and function in footwear, Guide Tanning and treatment methods of leather, https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/, https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/, https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp, Buying tip - Three highly interesting new shoemakers, Guide - How to prevent and remove mould from leather shoes, The tip - Reasons for heel slippage, and the solutions, The tip - Fix loose loafers with tongue pads, The tip - How to avoid and fix stains from hand sanitisers. Cleverley made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the top. On the side, do you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes? Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. Any comments on these issues? Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. Grain leather requires filling in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan does not. I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. Your email address will not be published. Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. But they look like a fairly smart pair of derbys, but one which will be pretty robust in that make and in the cordovan. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? I was getting desperate. Alden states that they use oak leather soles (likely meaning oak bark-tanned). The search continues for a boot that can go with nice denim and smarter trousers. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). Thank you! Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country.
